If you have a great story about how you use your Sekonic meter and want to share with us, we’re all ears! And if smacks of good light, we’ll make a blog story about you.
Email us your story now! (Hint, include photos and links!)
See past submissions here.
Need help in understanding the ev mode and understanding contrast and brightness using the 308s.
EV was a function born of meters having a needle galvanometer and uncoupled aperture-shutter speed calculator. Sekonic still markets such a meter in the L-398A which has been appreciated by cinematographers for years. Today, EV in meters like the L-308S FlashMate, is use mostly as a simple, direct way to compare the difference between one area of brightness to another. The light source you can measure is a constant source like the sun or common indoor lighting. Brightness is expressed simply by the number displayed. The higher the number, the brighter the source. In comparing one source to another, subtract the higher number from the lower one and you get the difference. Example: EV 6, EV4. The difference between lights it 2 stops or 200%. The decimal point also adds to this. The best way to measure the brightness falling on a subject is with the flat diffuser that is included with the L-308s. Point the diffuser at the light source to take the reading. You can also use a reflected-light measurement of an 18% reflectance card. There have been many good books written on this topic and we recommend doing a websearch to continue your education. We hope we have helped in the beginning of understanding how you can use the EV function of the L-308S.
Hi, Larry! Sorry we missed this comment!
Send us an email at email@example.com or call us at 914-347-3300 and we’d be happy to assist!
I have been into photography for some time and was wondering why I need a light meter versus just using the in camera one? I am thinking about getting one, but not sure I want to make the investment?
The multi-pattern metering systems of today’s cameras are certainly amazing. However, as they measure light reflected off of the subject, they still have to make “educated guesses” to arrive at exposure settings. The resulting exposure can then be underexposed for bright subjects and overexposed for darker subjects. The white dome of an incident light meter measures the light falling on the subject and so is not affected by dark or bright subjects. You simply get exposure settings that render the subject as it looks. There is no need for +/- correction. No need for bracketing. Meters also enable adjusting the brightness of different lights in front of the camera, example: studio lights, for ratios. We recommend visiting http://www.sekonic.com for many more examples of using light meters.
Hi Sekonic- Saw the post about still image makers with a penchant for education and I thought…wait a minute- Thats me!
I have had the luxury of working with young and up and coming photographers at a collegiate level for a few years now and the “I’ll just look at the histogram” “My digital camera is my light meter” mentality run rampant with younger artists. The blind trust in technology seems to pull the wool over the eyes of these students to only their detriment. (Personally- Im an analogue hold out and think that all these students should have to shoot their work on chrome before being given an LCD on their cameras…but thats neither here nor there)
I have loved my Sekonic 758DR since I got it and has served me in and out of the studio.
Great to hear, David. Thanks for the feedback. It’s important young shooters understand how today’s cameras only give you an overall light reading. We hear many good things about the L-758DR from both film and digital shooters. It’s the top choice of cinematographers, too. Check out http://bit.ly/eOGfiU. Enjoy!
I am itching to pull the trigger and buy one of your meters but I want to wait till I can get one with the Pocket Wizard ControlTL transmitters I hear you’re developing. Can you tell me if you are any where near to a rtelease dayte for this yet?
I have a Sekonic L-358 with a transmitter. With it, I can trigger lights (studio or Speedlights) connected to my Pocketwizard Plus II transceiver. I recently bought Pocketwizard FlexTT5 for Nikon, and tried to trigger the Speedlight mounted on it with my Sekonic L-358 but it would not fire. What am I doing wrong?
I use Gossen lightmeters, and I am fanatic in using lightmetering for commercial shoots, so if you like generic stories, I can help. Of course if your local agent wants to give me a skonic flashmeter to illustrate my stories – please do.
Robert A F van de Voort – http://www.albanystudios.co.nz
Hi, I’ve got an L-758 for a week and 2 PW Flexes for 1 day. The PW units sure are working: I can trigger the Nikon SB400 or SB600 flash with the PW, no problem. However, I could not get the L-758 to work (metering) with the PW units. When I press the measuring button, nothing happens. Help, please!
Thuan: Depending on where you live, you should contact Support directly.
The new PocketWizard radios use a new transmission system called “ControlTL.” Your L-758 transmits signals on the Standard PocketWizard system which is not compatible with FlexTT5 radios set to receive the ControlTL signal. The FlexTT5 can be set to receive either the Standard signal or ControlTL signal. There is also an easier way to establish exposure with the system. As you are new to the new PocketWizard ControlTL radios, I recommend viewing some videos which will explain everything and get you up and running.
Here is one for metering: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkLqmmnfybs&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
Here is the start of the dedicated Nikon videos: http://www.pocketwizard.com/inspirations/tutorials/nikon_intro/
Please be sure to Visit http://www.pocketwizard.com for operational questions about your new radios. They have really great videos and information covering every aspect of this wonderful system.
I have used Sekonic Meters in some way or another for well over 30+ years. In that time I’ve also relied on other meters for either outdoor or studio depending on the need.
Since the advent of digital imaging, higher ISO capabilities, extreme resolutions, work flow controls etc, a meter has become a critical part of studio work flow for most of us working daily. Trying to bring the subtle details to the masses has now become almost a loosing battle. As with the SLR BOOM back in 1983-84, everyone now has a camera, and wants to know how to use it better. With so many choices in front of a person, how does one go about finding information and instruction with some degree of certainty?
It’s very difficult.
There are many shooters and educators out there on the web. Everything from DYI to streaming video with step by step information for the hows and whys. I call this to your attention Sekonic because one individual has been working on your behalf for years now, and apparently has gone unnoticed. He has single handedly brought more people to your product than anyone I am aware of.
I speak of Mr Frank Doorhof of the NL.
From his personal blogs, to his one on one training he travels worldwide for, to instructional DVD sets produced and distributed for Kelby Training, Frank always has his L-758DR on his side and goes into extreme detail on the importance of this valuable tool. He’s even gone so far as to jokingly say to people ‘ Your crazy if you don’t use a meter’ in his blogs.
Frank is a educator, photographer, and is trained in many many areas of I.T.
Its this persons opinion that for Sekonic NOT to recognize this person for his value to your company and it’s products is pure madness. There is no one out there in this huge arena of choices we have for training and education in photography that touts Sekonic’s products the way Mr. Doorhof does. And I guess, I’m forgetting the ‘Rub’ here.. Frank’s work is simply amazing. A style like no other, and all those measurements made with Sekonic equipment.
So as an open letter to anyone who is anyone at Sekonic. I would RUN, not walk to this guys door and see if there’s anything YOU can do for him. It’s a pretty rare find in today’s world to have someone work so hard for something they merely just believe in.
As a closing caveat to this. I am in no way associated with Mr. Doorhof other than a long time devoted fan of his work and style of shooting.
I can’t agree more. Frank Doorhofis an amazing photographer and I assume he’s responsible for at least half of Sekonic’s european sales by spreading the word on and on.
“The MAC group” seems to pick and choose who and what they actually respond to. Too bad about Frank and his on going efforts. Sekonic has missed the boat on this.
As of this date, apparently MAC has stepped up it’s game and finally thrown some support behind Frank and his efforts. My congratulations to the MAC Group for it’s wise decision and hopefully it starts a wonderful collaboration with Mr. Doorhof. Maybe we can see Frank doing some info/educational video for your Sekonic Line.
I have used many light meters, I still own many of them Minolta IV-f, a Pentax 1 degree digital spot meter ( Ansel Adams favorite meter) I still shoot lots of film. I shoot black and white film and use the zone system all the time, I shoot color slide film where exposure latitude is not very forgiving. I shoot Medium format thru ULF 8×10 and larger. I also shoot digital have done so since it first came out.
I am of the old school but love the new school too, everything is just a tool you see. A tool to get what is in my head, out for the world to see. Well using a dual meter set up was a huge pain. So I recently went all out and purchased the 758dr.
WOW what a tool. It has replaced my best friends, even though my old meters read exactly the same as the new 758DR does, the 758 makes life so easy. I mean if you won a grey card you can easily calibrate the light meter to match any lens sensor combo. Having many lenses, or different cameras you can set different calibrations and not have to re calibrate every time you change a lens or a body. You see my 7D was under exposing 8/10th of a stop with a 17-55 2.8 lens. Easy fix with a grey card.
Also I see you offer a neat target for creating a profile, well this will show you the clipping point of the sensor, but really that isn’t needed for most people. What is important is what your meter says matches what you camera is doing when you set it. Again the grey card and knowing what that is supposed to look like on a histogram is all you need to calibrate (not profile) your meter. If you shoot Jpegs that is huge because you dont have room to fix exposure. Heck in Raw you will never have to move the exposure slider again.
When you have the meter calibrated, then what? You need to know where to place the meter and why. Do you point it to the light, to the lens (camera) or do you point it at neither. The answer is yes to all. Situations will arise when you need to know how to make a proper reading.. Just the basic foundations are so important that without them, the meter becomes a tool that sits in a bag because the results aren’t what you expect, so many revert to spray and pray. ” Ill fix it in Photoshop” well this is a crappy workflow.
I love to teach photography, I love to make videos, I love to learn. You see when you teach someone, you actually learn more doing so than if you just try to figure it out o your own. Teaching people something forces you to gain a better understanding, you will be talking ad it just all starts to click, next thing you know you are an expert on that subject. Well we all keep learning, even the so called pros, all of use grow more and more every day.
Experience isn’t something you can teach. working thru tough situations is the only way. One can be given the basic tools, knowing when they apply to a given situation is experience. To know is one thing, to apply knowledge is experience. One must be driven to build experiences. Then after years and years of various situations that you work through only then can one grow.
Then goal is to master your craft, and in photography this is the mastering of light, fr without it we have blackness, the best way I have learned is to know exactly what is going in any given situation is a light meter. With my 758DR I can really fly. I am not having to think as much. I can figure a middle value for a scene in he fly with no effort at all. I know that my Sensor or film can hold the information or not at a glance.
The basics are the hardest thing to master because people want to jump past the basics, like reciprocals, and what is the medium you are working with capable of rendering. They set the camera on auto, and spray and prey, they blame the gear because they dont know any better. They race past all of the boring stuff and expect to make works of art with zero knowledge.
I can help, I can start at the beginning, I can show people what they need to full understand in simple terms, terms that they can apply to day to day life. Not everyone want to be a professional photographer. But I see way to many that know someone that get them a break and they sell images to big company that really stink. Or they might be good at making friends (social networking) so this is why they succeed. In those cases it matters not if they know an F stop from an ISO, tonal range vs dynamic range it matters they have 1000000 followers tht all want to be them, because they got to shoot for Nike, or Canon.
I am not often impressed in today’s world of gimmicks and gadgets. I like the masters of lighting Yousuf Karsh is my hero, Dean Collin wow this is a instructor, dont get me wrong there are lots of good photographers out there. they learned their craft most mentored under an old timers. Example Monte Zucker, mentored Clay Blackmore, and many more.
There are some stand out tech gurus like Dave Hill, Chase Jarvis, Joey L, Zack Arias, you want to know what all of them have in common Richard Avedon and may other masters. They know the foundations, they know the rules of the game. A framework so to speak, then they break all the rules to self express.
The problem today everyone with a camera is a pro, and 99% of them dont have a clue, The wont read a book , study art, and give up on serious photography after the impulse to spend a couple of grand on a new camera and lens is gone when they see their images stink.
I am here to tell you learning the basics can be fun, it can be easy if you have the right teacher, I can help. You dont have to spend thousands of dollars going to workshops, people like me are all over. We love to teach, just ask and we will show you.
I hope I can contribute to this project with Sekonic. Let me make a sample video to show toy what I can do.
Thomas, WOW you just said it so right. I wish everyone could speak like this, to say things as they are and not flying to the moon without a spaceship!!! I second what you said and believe me there are so many fake photographer out there that don’t know what an exposure is i have met some of them that they say ”WE ARE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS” and when you look at theirs work, they really are rubbish. i am so glad that are people like you out there and open blind people’s eyes. i wish i could contact you to give me some suggestions about the photography…!!!
Thanks in advance
Wow,Fantastically said as I put it. I just like to print it and pin it to my studio wall.
I would like to know if Sekonic would entertain the idea of grouping with Paul C Buff and putting together a module for the 758DR models that would fire the Einstein E640 line of his lights?
I am Panneer selvam from India ( Chennai ) I am trying last 3 months to Buy sekonic L308Dc, but still i didn’t get the product in Chennai market . even Local Sekonic Distributor also telling same answer(No stock) last 3 months.
Where to Buy ???????
We contacted the Sekonic Head Office in Tokyo about your situation. They should be in contact with you shortly. Thank you for your persistence. The Sekonic L-308DC is a really great meter.
The Sekonic Information Staff
I do own a Sekonic 8 projector for 8mm films and I am looking for it’s plug
I have a 758DR. I also have the flex and Mini for Nikon. The 758 activates the flashes very eratically. Sometimes the 758 fires the flashes without a problem and sometimes only once. I have the channels set to 4 and the units work sporadically there. I try any other channels and there is no response.
Hello, I am waiting for the 3.03 update to the Sekonic DTS since the current software has issues with properly reading reflective etc. When I go to the download area it doesn’t designate the full numbers of the DTS version. How can I know when the right version is out?
Hello, I have a Sekonic 8mm Projector model 30 c/30 d.
It runs the reel backwards but not forwards.
Do you have any tips or suggestions.
I bought these two lightmeters from a closing studio. I do not have manuals or even the model number for the big one. They seam to be working fine but the reading is different from the minolta I use now in my studio by 1 F stop. I have used only Minolta II, III, Flash Meter IV and Auto Meter IV for 30 years, Can anybody help me, Please? I want to learn how to use these great meters. As a Pro I only need the manuals, because I have used a light meter all mi life.
Seial no. is 4020884 for the Flashmate L-308.
For the “big one” is 9A35101. I don´t know the Model number…
Carlos Echavarria S.
Pro, 51, Canon Eos, Broncolor.
Sorry for the confusion! The videos can be downloaded from their home on vimeo.com
Here’s the link for the video webinar:
If you mouse over the video, you should see a box appear in the upper right with a “download” option.
Here’s a second bit of info for you regarding downloading Webinar videos.
Right after the live Webinar is finished, the Ustream video is posted. It can be watched without being downloaded. Once the Vimeo HD version is ready, it’s added to the Sekonic site. These are all up-to-date.
So this is already happening – no download required.
Should i buy the sekonic 758 cine or wait for the new version of this meter?
Please contact Tech Support at firstname.lastname@example.org to discuss what you need, and they can help you with any questions that you have.
I was watching one of Joe Brady webinars where he demonstrated the ISO2 feature to add 2.5 stops with spot metering for clouds and or sky. I understand the concept and how it works.
When spot metering with my L558R for highlights (e.g. 125/f13), and the ISO2 is set to open up 2.5 stops, I get a reverse reading. I should be getting a longer exposure (30/f13) but I’m not, I’m getting a faster exposure (500/f13). Why? Is the L558R different from the L758R??
Thank you for your response,
Thanks for watching our webinar and for reaching out. Tech Support can help you. Their email address is email@example.com.
I’m an avid listener of your webinars and would like your opinion on the L558R light meter. I know your webinar is featuring the 758DR meter, Joe Brady always saying its one your favorites.
I’m looking to compare the two and why you may or may not like one over the other. I know one of the difference is you can trigger an off camera light when metering with the 758DR, not sure of some of the other functions.
I thank you and look forward to you response,
Thanks for your comment! Tech Support would be happy to help you. You can reach them at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Having bought a Canon 6D, the 478DR, the next thing to get was the radio triggers – until I found out the 6D isn’t supported by Sekonic. Is there any plan to support the canon 6D and Pocket Wizards any time soon?
The support you are looking for is PocketWizard compatibility with your Canon 6D. We have been talking with PW engineers about this. Actually, the Mini and Flex are not fully TTL compatible with the 6D. We should see something soon to remedy this. HOWEVER, for your use with the 478DR, they are completely compatible. You want to do the power level setting with the meter. The FlexTT5 will be under the flash and catch the power signal and set the flash. The Mini or Flex on the camera will be set to “No Change Trigger Only” to make sure only the 478DR is setting the power level. This works just fine on the 6D. You can even use the AC3 as an ON-OFF switch should you want to switch a light On or Off while shooting. Looks good.
Joe is out making videos for the next webinar. Need more information to get a good idea of your results. Dark images indicate underexposure which is odd when you are shooting with a big flash at three feet at 1/30 second. I would expect that over exposure would more likely be the problem. Please send images to AskPhil@sekonic.com with the meter readings and camera settings. Will get back to you soon. If Joe is around, I will show to him as well. Best, Phil
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